B.P. 3715 B.P. 2 ICTE

III L 102 Ranomafana 312 State Univ. of New York-Stony Brook

Tsimbazaza Ifanadiana SBS Building, 5th floor

Antananarivo 101 Madagascar Stony Brook, NY 11794-4364

(261) 2-321-23 (516) 632-7425

International Director: Patricia C. Wright

National Coordinator, Madagascar: Benjamin ANDRIAMIHAJA

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Dr. Deborah Overdorff Dr. Elizabeth Erhart

University of Texas-Austin Southwestern University

Dept. of Anthropology Dept. of Anthropology

Austin, TX 78712-1086 Georgetown, TX

(512) 471-7532

Madagascar is a wonderful country, whose pleasures can be more fully appreciated if you take the proper precautions. You must start making preparations and taking precautions at home. If you plan to do research in Ranomafana National Park, please remember that it must be approved. The principle investigators of this project (Dr. Overdorff) have submitted names in early December to Dr. Patricia Wright at SUNY-Stony Brook for approval.

Few of us have been plagued by serious health problems, but if you’re not prepared, some of the seemingly minor maladies can make life miserable. Ask your doctor to prescribe a few anti-bacterial drugs, and others that s/he might recommend for the tropics. For people with allergies or known medical problems, this is very important. You should bring along anything you suspect you will need, and let the expedition leaders know of these allergies or problems. VERY FEW drugs are available in Madagascar. We have a basic first-aid kit at the study-site, but cannot keep a full compliment of prescription drugs.

If you are interested, a recommended booklet is: Health Hints for the Tropics. For a copy, write to Karl A. Western, M.D., editor, "Tropical Medicine and Hygiene News," 6436 31st Street, NW, Washington, DC 20015-2342. Single copies are $4.00 each.

Because immunization requirements for Madagascar change periodically, you should consult the Center for Disease Control in Atlanta (phone 404-639-3311) for current requirements or your local doctor . Following is a list of most recent recommendations. Plan ahead because some drugs and shots cannot be taken simultaneously and you may have to wait a few weeks between boosters.

Yellow Fever Required. Good for ten years.

Cholera Required. Good for six months, get shortly before departure. (Many doctors will medically contradict this).

Hepatitis A Optional. Consult physician. Good Short term

Diphtheria-Tetanus Strongly Recommended. Good for ten years.

Typhoid Recommended. You'll need a booster if you have had this before. Now given in a capsule format. You will feel badly several days after taking the series so arrange to get the series well in advance before departure.

Polio Strongly Recommended. Get one dose if you’ve had it before; 2 doses one month apart if you haven’t.

 Rabies May be advised if you are handling animals. Consult physician.

Malaria Strongly Recommended. Though not as prevalent in Ranomafana as in other parts of the country, it is still of great concern. Consult physician about antimalarial prophylactics and their limitations and side-effects. Many people have taken Larium and not enjoyed the experience.

Mumps & Measles Required. Consult physician about booster.

1. Obtain current Passport.

2. Plane Reservations: (PI's can help you with travel arrangements)

Some places to try: CONTINENTAL TRAVEL- GAIL WEISS 1-800-336-0033

AIR MARITIUS- 1-800-537-1182

3. Visa:

You should apply for a one-month tourist visa. Visa applications and instructions can be obtained through the Embassy of Madagascar (in Washington, the number is (202) 265-5525 or by sending a self-addressed, stamped envelope to the RNPP office. Applications must be accompanied by: passport; 4 passport photos; copy of itinerary of r/t plane ticket; and money order made payable to the Embassy of the Democratic Republic of Madagascar. Your visa can be renewed by the Park office in Town once in Madagascar.

For entry to Madagascar you will also need your yellow immunization card validated with all necessary shots. If you plan to stay more than one month, you may want to bring six extra passport photos for visa extension or have them made in Tana. These can now be obtained in Tana as well but it is easier if you bring them yourself. The Park staff will help you renew your Visa in the country.

4. Packing:

Packing for travel is very important. U.S. airlines generally permit a total of three bags for international travel--including carry-on! Additional bags can be checked for app. $120 each. However, Madagascar is very strict about overweight baggage on outgoing flights, allowing a total of only 30 kg. Make sure you double-check any baggage questions with your travel agent. The PI will not be responsible for paying for any excess baggage you bring along. Recommended are a duffel-bags and/or an internal frame backpack. Particularly important will be the backpack, as you will have to haul your personal gear to the campsite. We would appreciate it if you would contact the U.S. ICTE office prior to departure and volunteer to carry mail and small packages over. Communications between the States and Madagascar are slow and expensive, so your cooperation is much appreciated.

Your carry-on bag is probably the most critical. The largest permissible bag is recommended. Pack your valuables and fragile items in your carry-on so that you can keep them with you. Don’t forget a change of clothes, just in case your luggage is lost. The importance of the carry-on becomes more evident on the way home, as you will be able to make your 30 kg. weight allowance by carrying your heavier items in your hand luggage.

5. Money:

Use your personal preference regarding traveler’s checks or cash. Some combination of the two is recommended, including at least $100 in cash. Take your cash in small denominations as it may be difficult to change bills over $50. If planning to leave the airport in Nairobi, a Kenyan visa is available at the airport for $10, plus an airport exit tax of $20 (payable in U.S.$). Exit tax from Madagascar is app. $25, sometimes payable in Malagasy Francs (FMG), but last year they wanted only 100ff (French Francs). Check the prices when you arrive so you will save enough for when you leave. Airport taxes often change without notice. Given that, you may want to change some money in Paris to keep for exit tax or get french francs while in states to save. You can change money when you arrive at the airport in Tana. You will need to show your remaining U.S. currency when you depart, together with your official money change form.

6. Arrival:

If you get into Paris in the morning and leave on the midnight flight- you can take the train from the airport into town for the day provided you are not extremely jet-lagged. Once you leave the airport, remember you won’t be able to check in until three hours before your flight leaves.

If you do not have arrangements to be picked-up at the airport, a taxi can take you anywhere in town for app. $10. There is also a bus from the Tana airport called "air route services" which will drop you off in the center of town. In most cases though, you will be traveling with someone who already knows their way around Tana or picked up by Park staff. See Deborah’s additional notes about getting around.

Mail delivery always remains uncertain. Usually, mail will reach Ranomafana from the U.S. in 3-4 weeks. Mailing packages is unadvised as they often bear inappropriately high customs charges. Feel free to have friends or relatives check in with the stateside office about sending mail with incoming project personnel. The most effective way to get mail back to the States is to bring U.S. stamps with you and return letters (with postage affixed) via researchers returning to the States who can then mail them from the U.S.

The Duke/Stony Brook House: Lot Vu 692, Manakambahiny, Antananrivo 101

This house is provided as part of an Accord of Collaboration between University of New York -Stony Brook and the University of Madagascar; thus, it is available for use by all RNPP researchers and affiliates. Non-RNPP researchers may use the house--with space permitting and the RNPP people *usually* taking priority. Please make sure you have an alternate plan in case the house is not available. On arrival in Tana, you must go by the Park Project office in Tsimbazaza in order to get a key to the house, log-in and pay your rent. You can also coordinate this through one of the P.I.s. Many people like the Etape hotel down the street across from the park office- they have hot water and the woman who runs the hotel is very nice to researchers.

Because it is used by a number of people for varying lengths of time, a few rules will make staying there much more pleasant:

1. The cost for staying at the house is relatively. To help with that investment, please follow the rules and note your passage in our "Guest Book." Pay your rent to the RNPP Office in Tsimbazaza. Rent covers fuel (butane) and electrical costs, as well as staple items in the house. Nightly charge is 10,000 FMG for RNPP researchers 20,000-30,000 FMG for non-RNPP researchers. (The actual cost to you will depend on the current value of the Malagasy franc).

2. Common areas are at your disposal, including the kitchen, dining-living room and bathrooms. Keep in mind that this is a communal home, so pick-up after yourself--wipe surfaces, wash dishes, and sweep floors. You are responsible for purchasing your own food.

3. In the kitchen, dishes are yours to use as long as you clean and dry them when you are finished. Don’t give cockroaches and rodents a foothold--keep the room clean and food stored away from prying pests. Any perishables remaining at the end of your stay should leave with you or be given to the guardian.

4. In the dining-living room, please keep the floor swept to avoid pest problems. If you use the fireplace, sweep up cinders and dump them before you leave. The books and magazines are yours to read; please place them back on the shelf when you’re finished. If you borrow any books, please leave a note to that effect, and return them as soon as you’re finished.

5. The house has two bathrooms, but only one bath. Please be courteous and use the one with the bath for bathing and short visits only. Replace toilet paper when it is out. The house has old plumbing so please do not put ANYTHING (including toilet paper) in the toilet and make sure you pull hair from the drains after bathing. Occasionally the water in the bathroom will stop flowing (this happens when the water is used downstairs). Thus, we advise that you fill a bucket with water before beginning your bath-- you’ll be glad you have a bucket with water when the water stops and you’re covered with soap. The bathroom has a gas water heater which is notoriously temperamental. Please follow these instructions carefully:

Turning on--turn gas on at bottle (counterclockwise). DO NOT touch the dials on the heater. Use a match or lighter and light the pilot light in the centerfront of the opening. When you are sure it is lit, turn the hot water tap on. Gas should light with a "pop," and then "roar" while the hot water is one. If it fails to do this, turn the water off immediately and check the pilot. If you can’t get it, ask someone who is familiar with the system to help you, or take a cold shower.

Turning off--turn the gas bottle valve to off (clockwise). DO NOT touch the heater dials. For maximum safety and conservation, please turn the gas off after your bath unless you will immediately be followed by another bather. This is extremely important.

6. Please be responsible for cleaning your bedroom after using it. Clean up trash and sweep floor. Please . . . NO SMOKING in bedrooms.

7. Storage space is very limited, but folks who will be returning are welcome to store a small duffel’s worth of personal belongings. All gear must be clearly marked with your name on it, and should be stored well out of the way. The bedroom downstairs and under the stairs are possible storage areas.

8. The guardian’s family at the house or at the park office may be willing to do laundry for a small fee. A small basket full of laundry will cost 2,500 FMG, and a large basket will cost 5,000 FMG. You should pay them when you give them the laundry. Be considerate of their services, but don’t overpay them. They may ask you to provide your own laundry soap.

10. The security is good and the guardian is diligent. Do your part to help. Always lock the chain on the door when leaving the house or when going to bed at night, unless there is still someone inside or out, respectively. When you go out, lock all the bedrooms and the dining-living room. Be sure all the shutters and windows are closed in these rooms as well. Keys to these rooms are in a plastic container in the kitchen cupboard (and they should always be left there). Please be considerate of the guardian when coming and going.

11. Miscellaneous info: An extra bottle of gas can be found under the counter in the kitchen--make not of its use or replace it.

12. Ready to go? Double check the following:

-bedrooms and common areas of house cleaned?

-trash dumped?

-stored items marked and out of the way?

-rooms locked and keys in cupboard?

-perishables removed from fridge (given to guardian)?

-gas and lights turned off?

-chain on front door locked?

-guardian thanked?

-rent and phone bill paid at RNPP office?

-key returned to RNPP office?

There are a two types of visa extensions: a tourist visa for a couple of months, and a research visa for longer periods. You should do whichever is appropriate the week you arrive to avoid any possible bureaucratic delays. Visas usually take two to five days to process. For summer project you will most likely not have to go through this procedure.

Permits: Primatologists/biologists need to get research permits. Social scientists, etc. may want tourist permits to enter the forest at Ranomafana. For tourist permits, go to the Eaux et Forets office in Antananarivo (bus #3 from Anakely to Ambatobe, 100 FMG) and ask for a 20,000 FMG tourist permit. The maximum time period that has been approved apparently is four months duration. For research permits, you must have your approval letter from MINESUP and take it to Eaux et Forets. Again check with P.I.s this will most likely be taken care of for you.

Ranomafana is a cool environment during May-August, so please come prepared for rain and temperatures as low as 40 degrees F (4 degrees C). Average lows are 50 degrees F (10 degrees C), and average highs are 70 degrees (20 degrees C). It gets warmer if you are staying through September.

Talatakely: The main study site has a research house which was built in late 1988. It is especially wonderful, because it lets us keep things relatively dry. Meals are cooked over a gas stove and the preparation responsibility is shared by all. If you have special dietary constraints, you should discuss it with the cabin manager or the other researchers who will be staying there prior to departure. Bring your favorite spices and personal goodies (i.e., candy bars, popcorn, etc.). Lunch is prepared by a hired guardian, but all researchers help with breakfast and dinner.

Sleeping sites are downhill a bit from the research cabin, and consist of cleared patches of ground. Researchers must bring their own tents, though tents are available for Malagasy students. Store your gear in your tent (extra gear can be stored at the Hotel Thermale).

Because it rains so often, laundry can be a problem. Whether you wash it at the research cabin or pay to have it washed, your laundry is your personal responsibility. The hotel is app. 7 km from the study site and will do laundry for a moderate fee. There is also a woman in Ambodiamontana who will do a basket’s worth of laundry for 3,000 FMG.

This site is currently where Dr. Overdorff and Dr. Erhart work. This is a approximately 5 km hike from the main camp described above. The first 3 km are up a fairly steep incline affectionately known as "Fingernail Mt.". We recommend working out accordingly before your arrival in Madagascar (running stadium stairs or hills is an excellent way to get in shape). This camp is much more primitive than the main camp. There is a main campsite next to the Vatoharanana river and tent sites are distributed nearby. You may bath in the river but we insist you to use biodegradable soaps and shampoo. The main campsite has two fire pits and a latrine, a few benches, and a work table. We do have a camp cook who works on the weekdays but we are responsible for cooking food over the weekends. Last year we started cooking with charcoal which can be a bit of a challenge, but purchased a gas stove for weekend cooking.

1. Individuals are responsible for providing their own camping and research equipment (including batteries.)

2. Costs: Costs are changing but the following prices are what has been quoted to me for the moment:

$125.00/month ANGAP fee (this goes directly to the government of Madagascar)

$50.00 Flat research fee which buys your research permit for the summer

$10.00/dayVatoharanana bush camp food fee 5$ - people working out of the cabin have their food taken care of but we must buy our own food at the bush camp. 5$ goes to the park infrastructure While in Ranomafana or Tana count on spending $20/day for food and lodging.

The cost of using the research house and facilities is based on provisioning and infrastructure and includes: vehicle infrastructure; use of stove; fresh food; porters; cook and guardian; guides and trail system; household furnishings and equipment; fees for Malagasy students and professors.

If you plan to use the hillside bush-camp at Vato, you must provision yourself and provide your own tent, tarps, cooking and field equipment.

Sleeping bag (down to 35 degrees Fahrenheit)

Sleeping pad- I suggest a Thermarest variety- helps insulate you from the ground

Small daypack or field vest with pockets

Headlamp plus small hand held lamp (Don't forget the batteries)

Swiss army knife

Waterproof wrist watch plus one for you research assistant (or guide)

Compass

Insect repellent

Pen with waterproof ink (I recommend the Pilot pens- medium point- they write on wet paper)

Unbreakable plastic bowl, a knife, fork, and spoon to add to our eating utensil collection

Nalgene water bottle for the day trips

Duct tape

plastic zip lock baggies

Big plastic trash bags to keep things dry in your tent

Binoculars

Data books of choice ( mix of regular and waterproof)

If you are providing your tent- get a ground cloth for under it and a tarp for over it.

--- RAINSUIT (you are working in a rainforest afterall- gortex is best- get something that breathes I'd recommend a Rain jacket and Rain pants- ponchos get tangled)

---- Gortex socks from REI- they are expensive but keep your feet dry and reasonably warm

---- Wool sweaters- keep you warm when wet and dry quickly- good presents when you leave

--- Gloves--light wool

--- Rubber Boots--above-calf rubber boots to protect against leeches (may prefer army jungle- boots- rubber boots are nice to slip on quickly at night if you have to run around camp

--- Hiking boots of choice- many researchers just use rubber boots but if you have ankle or knee problems you may want better footwear (use common sense- you know your body best).

--- Sneakers or preferred "town" shoes (I keep a pair of sneakers around camp)

--- Flip-flops

--- Towel

--- Extra eye glasses or contacts (remember all your solutions- these can't be bought in RNP)

--- Toiletries: soap, toothpaste, toilet paper, etc. (women should bring plenty of tampons, as they aren’t easily available in Madagascar)

--- Sewing kit with safety pins

--- Personal medical supply (i.e. aspirin, bandaids, antibiotics, birth control, etc.)

--- Condoms (condoms are not available in Madagascar, but STD’s are)

--- Iodine tablets for water purification- we boil water and also filter water- you may want to purchase an REI water filter (around $35) to pump water for daily drinking

--- Field cloths- I recommend Army surplus stuff- at least 4 pairs of field pants, several shirts, I like Turtlenecks, jacket for around camp, layers are important. Some people like jeans but once wet they never dry out- I suggest jeans only for town.

---- Bandanas

---- Underwear- polypropylene is good

---- Bring lots of socks- all cotton ones take forever to dry

---- Long johns- it gets cold when you are sitting outside all day with sleeping lemurs

---- something to sleep in (I like sweat suits)

---- Hat with brim (or baseball caps- good gifts at the end of the summer)

---- gloves

---- towels (at least two- don't get thick ones- they'll never dry)

--- Insect repellent (liquid)

--- 50 ft. nylon cord (1/8-1/4 inch thickness)

--- Waterproof storage bag

--- Lots of zip lock bags to keep things dry in! You can’t have too many!

--- Whistle (in case you get lost)

--- Camera and flash, plus silica gel and container to store them in

--- Film to last your stay

--- Tapes of your favorite music

--- Reading material for idle times

--- Special food items (candy, spices, popcorn, etc.)

--- Collapsible umbrella

--- Inexpensive gift items (small umbrellas, lighters, soap)

--- Spices for dinners and lunch (basil, oregano, chili powder)

---- Letter writing materials and US stamps (people go back and it is faster to give them letters to mail)

---- You may want to bring some oatmeal or get some instant breakfast cereal in Tana for breakfasts in the forest (rice for breakfast gets old fast!)

--- Popcorn

--- Any special goody you might want to bring to share later in the summer

--- Any special goodies that will keep you sane and you don’t want to share!

Because this is a bush camp, obviously the logistics of getting food back and forth can be tricky. We eat a great deal of rice and beans (Madagascar is the second largest rice producing country in the world and the Malagasy often eat rice three times a day). A typical dinner is rice (sometimes pasta) with some sort of sauce. We do have access to a wide variety of vegetables and do have some canned meats on occasion (Tuna, corned beef, sardines). Fresh fruit such as oranges and bananas are available as well. For lunches, we usually have option of cheese, bread, sometimes peanut butter, or if you are in camp you can have a hot meal with the guides. Expect meals to be simple and not as diverse as you might have in the US.

If you have any particular food cravings that you can't live without (such as chocolate) feel free to bring your own personal stash (within reason- see baggage limits above). The chocolate bars in Madagascar are quite good so have spending money on hand for those kinds of extras.

The list and suggestions are as comprehensive as possible. Please feel free to point out any omissions. Remember that this project is one that requires sensitivity, hard work, cooperation, patience, and flexibility. We will try to make conditions as hospitable and enjoyable as possible, but we need your help. Each person’s project is a part of the whole that has become Ranomafana National Park. Let’s not lose sight of the big picture: the reason we are all here is to study, protect and sustain the valuable resources in Ranomafana. Please remember to contribute accounts of your experiences and copies of your publications to the RNPP stateside office so that we can maintain a comprehensive account of all research activity. Good luck!