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Come to Chersonesos

One of the most far-flung outposts of ancient Greek civilization is quietly situated on the Black Sea coast of Ukraine.

The 2,500-year-old city of Chersonesos has been home to the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Slavs and has survived invasions by the Mongols, Ottoman Turks and others. It’s the entry point of the Orthodox faith to Russia.

It’s neighbor to modern Sevastopol, the secretive site of the Soviet Black Sea fleet. Yet few outside the region have heard of the site, and even fewer have visited.

This is expected to change in coming decades, due in large part to the work of The University of Texas at Austin’s Institute of Classical Archaeology (ICA).

ICA has been working at Chersonesos since 1992 when its director and founder, Dr. Joseph Coleman Carter, was invited to the site by the National Preserve of Tauric Chersonesos. Over the next decade, ICA created long-term collaborations with the Preserve and the governments of Ukraine and Sevastopol. Those collaborations evolved beyond simply excavating the site.

The organizations are now working together on multiple plans to preserve Chersonesos for future generations, with very substantial backing from the Packard Humanities Institute (PHI).

Among the projects is the creation of an archaeological park at Chersonesos that will preserve the ancient landscape of the city and its territory, or “chora.” Visitors will witness ancient wheat production, an ancient vineyard and gardens, including an herb garden. It will be the first-ever park of a chora, illuminating rural life of the past for visitors and bringing tourists to the area to help stimulate the local economy.

The territory of Chersonesos contains many stone farmhouses, and much of the dense grid of country lanes that divided the chora still exists. And the artifacts recovered at the site—from decorated sarcophagi to mosaic floors to household items in blue glass—are as impressive as those found at any site around the world.

“Here is a city that is almost completely preserved, because nothing was built over it,” says Carter. “It was simply abandoned.”

Today locals pass through the ancient city to get to the beaches on its coast, and a handful of families come to the chora to visit their dachas, or country homes. But while Ukraine acknowledges Chersonesos as a critical part of its cultural heritage—an image of the city appears on a denomination of Ukrainian currency—making this monument to the past accessible to the world has been a challenge.

“It’s really nice to be able to help them,” Surina. “They are so devoted to the site, giving their lives working for a great goal, but with little monetary reward. All of a sudden they have this opportunity. It’s very meaningful for all of us. And it’s something very tangible and completely driven by what people are asking for.”

Working with preservation at this level is a recent turn for ICA. Its real claim to fame is its pioneering work in the archaeology of the chora. In fact, ICA is recognized as an international leader in the study of rural populations in the classical world.

ICA’s groundbreaking project on the study of rural populations began in 1974 at Metaponto in the far south of Italy. Its work has turned the common image of the archaeologist—with wide-brimmed hat and brush in hand—on its head.

“We’ve carried archaeology a bit further than classical archaeologists have in the past,” Carter says. “We look to economic motivations and causative explanations that go beyond generals and battles and so forth. What was the situation of the land? Why were these people suffering from malaria and syphilis? What crops were they raising? Why did their economy fail?”

Answering questions like these requires a multidisciplinary approach. Archaeologists working with ICA still survey the land. But at the same time palaeobotanists study seeds to determine what crops were common in the ancient world. Geomorphologists conduct intense studies of the soil. Physical anthropologists examine human remains. ICA even helped move archaeology into the space age.

ICA has partnered with the university’s Center for Space Research (CSR) to use remote sensing images from space to view ancient territories. ICA and CSR received a major grant from NASA to study imagery of Chersonesos, which enables researchers to better understand the way land was divided in the chora.

“I think we can be considered a leader in this area,” Carter says. “No other project has had the same range that we have in terms of the scientific approaches that have been employed.”

As ICA brings the full range of archaeology to the chora of Chersonesos, the site brings a new focus to ICA. The need to not just excavate but also preserve and develop the site encouraged ICA to evolve from an organization focused on rural archaeology to one geared toward public archaeology as well.

“Public archaeology is a branch of archaeology where you try to combine the interests of all parties, scholars and the local community, the government and the tourism sector,” says Glenn Mack, Ukraine project director at ICA. “You try to bring them all together to reach an agreement for the common good. And the common good is to preserve these monuments, these areas of ancient civilization, and make them physically and intellectually accessible.”

With the support of PHI, ICA will continue to partner with the Preserve and the Ukrainian and Crimean governments to develop Chersonesos into a site that will draw tourists and scholars from all over the world. And a first step in generating interest in the site is making the site’s history and findings available.

To that end, ICA and the National Preserve of Chersonesos published the book “Crimean Chersonesos: City, Chora, Museum, and Environs” in 2003. The book is the first time since 1913 that anything extensive has been written in English about the site. Featuring hundreds of color photographs and architectural reconstructions of the site, it introduces the site to the world, and represents the kind of vision that ICA brings to the field of archaeology.

“Excavation and study, yes, we do both every summer,” Mack says. “But the publications and the building of a laboratory at the museum and undertaking an archaeological park represent a significant long-term plan. Most archaeologists wouldn’t commit themselves to such a degree.”

Related Sites

Chersonesos, Ukraine
Metaponto, Italy
Department of Classics


  Updated September 16, 2008
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