Travel

Two Waco Attractions Prove Irresistible

Who knew Waco could be so fascinating? Though several of the RFSA Travelers making the day trip to Waco on April 17 were in on the secret, most were amazed and captivated by discovering two of Waco's little known treasures.

First discovery was the Armstrong Browning Library, a stunning jewel in the heart of the Baylor University campus that holds the world's largest collection of books, letters, manuscripts and mementos relating to Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning.  As explained by the group's tour guide and English faculty professor, this fantastic facility exists because of the vision, dedication, and perseverance of Dr. A.J. Armstrong, chairman of the Baylor English department from 1912 to 1954, and an ardent devotee of all things Browning.

When Brownings' estate was sold in 1913 after the death of their only son, "Pen," Dr. Amstrong, with his wife, Mary Maxwell Armstrong, spent the rest of his life begging former students and other donors for gifts, and raising the funds to buy what wasn't given.

Today the collection is housed in a magnificent Italian Renaissance limestone building, unique among the red brick of the other Baylor structures, and called by the library's website, "the most beautiful building in Texas." In 1943 Baylor President Pat Neff,  also a former Texas governor, offered $100,000 toward its construction. Dr. Amrstrong, by then 70 years old, took up the challenge of raising the requisite additional funds.  World War II intervened but in December 1951 the elegant 1.75 million-dollar edifice was dedicated.

Though primarily a research library, the Travelers did not have time to peruse the manuscript collection, but were treated to a room- by-room tour of this grand building. They marveled at the impressive bronze entrance doors, patterned after the baptistery doors by Ghiberti in Florence. These doors, the building's 62 stained glass windows, thought to be the largest collection of secular stained glass windows in the world, its many painting, including eight by Pen Browning, all depict scenes from Browning's poems or his life. Busts of Robert, Elizabeth Barrett and Pen Browning are included among the library's numerous sculpture pieces along with many pieces of furniture, jewelry and household items that give a glimpse into the Browning's daily lives.

The Travelers agreed they would like to spend more several more hours exploring this treasure, but it was time to keep their lunch date at the Homestead Heritage Crafts Village, and a peep into 19^th Century pre-industrial America. Located five miles west of !-35 north of Waco, Homestead Heritage is a religious community that focuses on family, and emphasizes an agrarian lifestyle, and developing skills in traditional handcrafts. Only Kay and Del Taebel had visited before.

Over a delicious lunch of soup or salad, smoked turkey or pastrami sandwiches topped off with home-made ice cream—all food raised on Homestead's farm they were told that the community owns 510 acres that they call Brazos de Dios. They have a membership of almost 1,000, and count lawyers, Baylor University professors and other professional people among their congregants.  Some families have homes on the property but others live in the surrounding area.

RFSA Travelers were told emphatically that the community is not Mennonite. The women do not cut their hair, but wear it pinned up and don't use make-up.They never wear pants, but always have on modest homemade dresses.The men, however, would blend perfectly into any modern setting. They are clean-shaven with short hair, wear neatly pressed pants and always have on collared shirts (never a tee). Most members don't wear jewelry, even wedding rings. Children are home-schooled and encouraged to stay in the community rather than going off to college.

Cars, both cell and landline phones, electricity, and computers for classroom instruction are allowed, but there are no radios or television.  Only the office has internet connections to maintain the community's web site and to conduct its business.

After lunch it was tour time. Although the tour was limited to the handful of rustic buildings housing the major craft industries, the Travelers were shown a video of other activities on the property such as farming with horses instead of tractors, raising livestock, making cheese, spinning and weaving wool, quilting and woodworking.

Of special interest to the group was watching grain being ground in a restored 1760 era gristmill complete with grinding stone and waterwheel that had once stood in New Jersey, but was brought by the community to Texas in 2000.  When someone pointed out that there wasn't a stream to turn the waterwheel that powered the grindstone they were told that an electric pump recirculated the water, making the wheel spin.

Other demonstrations included one at the blacksmith shop where they watched the smith heat an iron rod over a roaring fire and with hammer and anvil pound out a decorative metal leaf.

In the potters' shop a young female potter who grew up in the Homestead community made a goblet on an electric potters wheel while the group watched, and answered questions. She said that she had apprenticed at the various craft areas on the farm, among them quilting, weaving, gardening and cooking before deciding to become a potter. Testimony to the quality of the ceramics produced here is shown by the fact that one of their outlets is the upscale Austin store, Clarksville Pottery.

The grounds are open to visitors Monday through Saturday year round, and guided tours can be arranged for groups of ten or more.  The community is also host to many school field trips and conducts workshops throughout the year that offer training in the various handcrafts. A major event is its craft fair on Thanksgiving weekend.

See www.browninglibrary.org for more information about the Armstrong Browning Library, and www.homesteadheritage.com to learn more about Homestead Heritage.